READY FOR THE RUNWAY

SESSION STYLIST ADAM GARLAND TAKES US FROM HAIR TEST THROUGH TO SHOWTIME AT EUDON CHOI A/W24

ADAM GARLAND

A runway show can last anything from 15 minutes to an hour – it’s a fastpaced, immersive experience for attendees and a moment of celebration for all those involved behind the scenes. It may be one of many in a typical Fashion Week schedule, but for the designer, hair and make-up artists, styling and production, it represents countless Zoom calls, sporadic WhatsApp messages and more sleepless nights than we dare to count.

Preparations for Eudon Choi A/W24 began back in November 2023 for hair lead Adam Garland, global advocate for AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT. As long-standing collaborators, the relationship between the duo has blossomed, as trust and understanding of each other’s creative progress grows. While Eudon has a very specific customer in mind (often resulting in more pared-back hair looks) this season has given Adam chance to push the beauty further. “As a hairdresser, you have to be flexible,” says Adam. “You’re speaking a different language to the designer, and this can be hard to translate over WhatsApp messages.”

Two weeks prior to meeting with Eudon for the test, Adam and his team were given references in order to develop an initial hair concept (this can take place much later if budgets are only confirmed at the last minute). Whatever is prepared on a blockhead will never look the same on the model, which is why the hair test is such a valuable part of the process.

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In an unassuming location in Haggerston, Adam and his two assistants, Miles Twist and Bella Hudgell, joined Eudon and his team to finalise the hair look for the show. Make-up lead Jane Richardson was also present, as collectively they worked through proposed concepts on a handful of models walking the show. There’s no set time for how long this typically takes, but Adam considers it to be “one of the most enjoyable parts of the process. It is hard but pushes to the point of magic”.

The hair test is also a chance to see the mood boards and references in person, which can often spark further creativity and conversation between the parties involved. “Everything can change from hair test to later that weekend, sometimes even after run-through on show day,” says Adam. An unspoken part of the day is also managing expectations, and this becomes easier as a hair lead builds mileage in the session world. This is Adam’s fifth year doing shows and he knows all too well that “the hair moment will come one day”. Not every show calls for maximalist beauty, but sometimes the simplest of details can be everything.

FINISHED LOOK PORTRAIT IMAGES BY CHRIS BULEZUIK

The hair look that hit the runway was very similar to the one seen in the hair test, with the overall vibe being about balance and flow. Adam and his team primarily focused on enhancing the silhouette with lots of texture at the crown, before adding a low pony at the nape. A key detail backstage was the use of a balloon to encourage some texture in the middle of the hair sections, as well as using liberal amounts of Airy Texture Spray and a light misting of the Working Hairspray, both from AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT.

With so many elements involved in achieving the desired finish, there’s little room for error backstage and it’s vital for the team to run like a well-oiled machine. As a hair lead, it may be tempting to micro-manage the situation, but it is impossible to be the only one to ‘finish’ every model. Trust is the only way to make it work for everyone and ultimately the team are there to have fun too. “If I don’t allow them to do, I will never know they can do,” says Adam during a frank conversation about time management and workloads. Adam doesn’t have an agent but has built an amazing team who are also on the journey from concept to creation with him for each show. “I am nothing without my team,” he states, and this team is most definitely going places.