1 mins
BUT DON’T MAKE THESE MISTAKES!
TIA LAMBOURN
BAY STUDIOS, DERBY
MISTAKE 1
RINSING TOO EARLY
The bleach is on and you’re panicking: ‘I’m using a blue bleach, and it looks like it’s ready to come off”. Take out a tiny strand of hair from the foil and do an elasticity test, instead of just judging it visually. You can then feel if it’s ready to come off.
If it’s started to feel a bit stringy, then that can also save you from breakage. That has saved me in the past, when I’ve thought: ‘this needs another 20 minutes’.
MISTAKE 2
USING ASH TONERS FOR A BRIGHT FINISH
Ash was a big trend, everyone wanted to be an icy blonde or platinum, but for bright blondes I’m always reaching for the warmer shades. With clients who want to be mega-blonde but cool, colourists will often mix up an ash toner. But if you think of a white cloud compared with a grey cloud, the grey cloud has more ash in it… and it looks darker.
With a blonde tone that’s more ashy, it’s going to appear more dull, it’s got a heavy amount of pigment in there and won’t reflect the light so much. You can do a mix of warm and ash so that it’s more of a creamy milky blonde – you get the best of both worlds.
MISTAKE 3
IGNORING THE CLEAR
The most used ‘colour’ in my salon is the clear! Sometimes the hair lifts so perfectly that what you’re going to end up doing is almost making it look slightly muddy.
If you’ve managed to lift your client to a nice level 11, you want to be glossing with your chosen shade and the same amount of clear – go half and half. In some scenarios, I’ll do three-quarters clear, onequarter of the chosen shade.
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